Why does my New Area Rug Smell like Gas?

    Brand New area rugs tend to have an exotic odor. This can be due to a number of factors, I will quickly list a few…

1. New Rugs are often packaged for shipment as soon as they are completed, whether hand-made or machine-made, they are quickly placed in an air tight plastic bag or container. These new rugs have not yet been allowed to outgas (allow smelly stuff to dissipate) before packaging and shipping directly to you. This can often be the number one reason for smelly New Rugs.

2. Some New Rugs will have an exotic smell based on the area or region that they were constructed. Certain chemicals in the dyes, washes and rinses used in rug manufacture can account for some smells. I have had people tell me that a rug made in India smells like India, and a rug made in Thailand smells like Thailand (I guess you would have to spend time there to know this. I can attest to certain decor items that smell like the countries or cities I have visited in the Far East).

3. Some of the Foulest smelling New Rugs have a very distinct odor and a very distinct reason for that smell. Most area rugs use some form of latex to insure a good bond between the fibers and the backing of the rug. This smell is directly proportional to the amount of latex used, some rugs have a solid latex layer on the back and these are the type that I am always warning people not to use over a cherished flooring such as vinyl, hard-wood and laminates, because they will eventually cause damage to such flooring not to mention that it takes them longer to outgas. There are also two types of latex used depending on the region where the rug was made. There is Natural Latex and Synthetic Latex. Natural latex has a stronger smell than synthetic latex. It can manifest as anything between a burned rubber smell to a smell that reminds us of gasoline.

    The best way to keep the strongest odors out of your home is to unwrap your new area rug outdoors, in the garage or a patio and allow it some time to outgas before you bring it into your home. Just a day or two outdoors can outgas a majority of the strongest smells, but your rug may continue to smell for a week or two. It can take some rugs even longer to outgas if the manufacturer used natural latex. Some rugs never do fully outgas or may seem okay until you spill something on it or have it cleaned and the smell gets stronger again. Many synthetic rug pads may also need out-gassing before interior use.

    You can minimize your chances of dealing with a really smelly rug by buying a wool fiber rug with a standard heat-set backing from a reputable source and ventilate the room by cracking open some windows for the first few days (72 hours) after you unpackage your new area rug.

Charles Beason,

www.RugRunnerBiz.com

Fine Wool Area Rugs and Home Decor Items

Technorati Tags: new area rugs,smell,odor,gas,gasoline,burned rubber,outgas,natural latex,synthetic latex

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One Possible Solution to Lessen or Eliminate Edge Curling on Light-Weight Area Rugs

Here is a recent email consult I had with a very nice individual that was having Edge Curl Problems with his Area Rug. Here is the Substance of our email and a possible solution for this problem. This is a DIY Tip from me to you.

    I thought this might be a typical consult on edge curling problems in light-weight area rugs. In this instance it was quite fortunate that this individual sent some pictures of his area rug for me to look at, as it turned out that he actually had what appears to be a Wool Fleece (not a Shag rug), and not an average light-weight area rug. Dealing with edge curl on a light weight Fleece can really be a challenge, once the edges begin to curl it becomes increasingly difficult to get them back into position so that they lay flat against the floor, this is . Edge Curl, Bunching and Wrinkles are  problem for many light-weight rugs. Aside from Fleeces, there are a variety of rugs that may defy gravity and generally give you a hard time, when you just want them to lay flat and behave. Examples of light-weight rugs include some needle-punch or flat-weave rugs and some Kilims and Soumaks are more similar to a tapestry in weight and points per square inch. Many cotton or polypropylene (olefin) rugs that do not have a solid latex backing tend to exhibit these problems. Latex or rubber backed rugs can cause even greater problems, you can read about them in my blog or on my web site. My Advice: Do Not Buy Any Area Rug With a Solid Latex Backing (unless it’s for use on a patio or outdoors)! Okay, back to light-weight rugs and one possible solution for them. Here is the actual email response as I sent it…

Hi (Mr. Example),

What you have is not actually a standard area rug per se’, it looks as though you have an actual Wool Fleece which is great except for problems with edge curling. Most rug pads will not be of any help to you with this type of rug. One of the best solutions I could offer you would be to add substance and weight to your fleece by applying a secondary backing. You could use any heavy fabric or even a fabric painter’s tarp (or canvas) for your secondary backing. Using a latex based adhesive (a multi-purpose flooring adhesive will work fine) and a stiff paintbrush to apply it and bind your secondary backing to the back of your fleece rug. Here are the steps I would take.

1. Turn fleece rug over so back faces up.

2. Cut your fabric slightly larger than your fleece rug to allow for expansion or contraction of the fabric while the adhesive cures. Dry fit onto the back of the rug and be sure to allow 1 inch or so around all edges (you will trim it exactly after everything is done).

4. Roll back half of the fabric and apply your adhesive (approximately 1/32 to 1/16 inch layer of adhesive, you don’t want the adhesive to ooze through the fabric or the fleece), then roll and press fabric back onto the fleece.

5. Repeat this step for the other half.

6. Before you turn the fleece back over you will probably want to lay out some newspapers or a tarp so you don’t get adhesive on your primary flooring – Then turn the fleece back over.

7. Press and push from center of fleece to the outer edge with your hands to make certain the adhesive binds to the fabric and the back of the fleece.

8 After the adhesive dries completely (follow directions on container for drying time) approximately 4 hours for many adhesives, you can then use scissors to trim the fabric edges to fit the fleece rug. As you trim, make certain you have a good bond between your fabric and the back of the fleece. (You can peel back and re-glue any edges that may need reinforcing).

    Now you have added enough substance and weight to your rug to keep the edges from curling, you should get many years of use out of it without fighting edge curling problems. Many people also use the technique I described above, but only apply a 6 inch strip of canvas to the edges. Since your fleece is so light-weight, I would suggest covering the entire backing according to the steps above. Hope this helps you… write me if you have more questions.

Charles Beason

www.RugRunnerBiz.com

PS. Be sure to use a Fabric, Canvas, or Jute that is heavy or dense, but will still allow the rug to "breathe", this will help prevent the type of problems that occur with solid latex backings. It is very important that moisture and gases can pass through the rug and dissipate into the indoor atmosphere.

 

LiveJournal Tags: solution for curling rug edges,light-weight area rug problems,DIY tip,fleece,adding weight and substance to your rug,examples of light-weight rugs,rugrunnerbiz

Why do my Carpet (Rug) runners curl, wrinkle and move around?

Primary reasons for problems with rug runners for Home Decor use.

    Most rug runners that are sold by the foot were actually designed for stairways. They are usually a flat-weave construction and were designed to be tacked or stapled in place. Many people try to use these type of rug runners on the main wear areas in foyers and hallways. This seems like a good idea, especially if you have a good wall-to-wall carpet that you are trying to protect.

    The problems that arise from using a flat-weave over carpet are due to the fact that they were not designed for this purpose. When you choose a runner to take most of the abuse from foot traffic in your home, you need to choose a runner that is NOT a flat-weave. A standard cut-pile area rug runner is the best choice for this type of application. Choose a runner that has a standard heat-set backing, and most importantly, choose a runner that has substance. When I say substance I mean that the rug runner should have enough weight to allow gravity to keep it in it’s intended position. A twelve to fourteen mm. density is usually perfect for such a purpose. A better quality rug runner will not wrinkle or curl the way that a flat-weave does, however, most rugs or runners will tend to crawl (or travel) in the direction of the carpet nap. If your rug runner has substance and proper backing, it will not move around much. A few inches per week under normal traffic (not nearly as much as a flat-weave runner).

    It is my opinion that Wool is the best kind of rug or runner for indoor use and there are a multitude of color and pattern choices that will fit your home decor and offer much better performance than a synthetic fiber flat-weave rug runner. Shopping for a good quality rug runner on the Internet will usually afford you the best quality rug runner for your money by cutting out the high mark-up of most retail stores. I have selected some of the better deals I have found online on my web site and I will try to add more runners to the selection soon.

Charles Beason,

www.RugRunnerBiz.com  — Fine Area Rugs and Home Decor Items.

LiveJournal Tags: carpet,rug runner problems,curl,wrinkle,travel,flat-weave,heat-set,rug backings,fiber,substance,weight,wool,tips

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My Rug (carpet) shows vacuum cleaner marks – will it go away?

Vacuum Tracks and Footprints on Rugs or Carpets

    Almost all Cut-Pile (Plush or Saxony) Rugs or Carpets will show vacuum tracks and footprints. It is the inherent nature of this type of rug. Cut-Pile rugs in solid colors will tend to show more than a multi-color, but they all will show to some extent. I am always mindful of this when I consult with a client, and I will generally ask them if tracks and footprints bother them. If it does, I will show them another style of rug or carpet. Texture styles are a little better, but will still show some, in solid colors. If you absolutely hate vacuum marks, choose a Cut-Berber, Berber or high-low style rug or carpet.

    Although cut-pile rugs and carpets will show vacuum tracks and footprints, they reflect light in such a manner as to give the flooring a very luxurious effect. This luxurious look comes at the cost of footprints and vacuum trails.

Charles Beason,

www.rugrunnerbiz.com

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LiveJournal Tags: Rug Problems,Area Rugs,Carpet,Vacuum Marks,Tracks,Trails,Footprints,Cut-pile,Plush,Saxony

White Powder under New Wool Area Rugs?

White Powder accumulating under new wool rugs

 

    I have been asking around and the only sensible answer I have received came from a gentleman who wrote me an email about this subject. He is fairly certain that the white powder under a new wool rug could be Guar Flour (gum). This is a non-toxic, food-grade additive, that is most often used in rug dyes to help in binding and adhesion. I have known that it is used as a binding agent inside of dyes, this is the first I have heard of an external application. According to this theory, it would seem that the Guar Flour is being used externally, to help the dye further adhere to the wool fibers in a rug (primarily in the Far-East). Is this really the problem? Although this is the first explaination that makes sense to me, I will further research it to find if this is the true cause for this problem. I use the word problem loosely here, as it is a source of concern for many people who have contacted me. If this is truly part of the manufacturing process in the Far-East, why don’t they remove the excess powder before packaging and shipping the area rugs?

    By the way, I have yet to see this problem occur in any of the rugs we suggest on our web site.

    If anyone knows the certain cause for this concern, please leave a comment to this blog, or email me at:

chazbeason@rugrunnerbiz.com

 

Charles Beason,

www.RugRunnerBiz.com

The use of Clear Plastic Runners to Protect your Carpet

    I continually have clients asking me about buying clear plastic runners to put on top of their carpet to protect it from traffic, soil and spills. So I thought I would write a few lines about it. Using plastic runners in your high traffic areas sounds like a logical way to protect your carpet investment… but more often then not, they can cause more damage than they prevent.

    On my web site and in my blogs, I have spoken to the problems that can be presented when you use area rugs with a solid latex or rubber backing. I have also written an article about the damage that can occur to carpet and pad from the use of solid plastic, vinyl or rubber office chair mats. However, I neglected to mention that the same problems can occur with the use of plastic runners on carpet (or rugs) when your home is built on a concrete slab foundation.  If you will reference my article ‘Avoiding Rug Damage in the Home Office’ you will be able to understand the type of problems that can occur when you cover any flooring product with a solid plastic, vinyl or rubber, whether it is a mat, runner or rug. Since most of the information can be found in the article link above, I will keep this post short. Here is a short summary:

    If your house has a concrete slab foundation (and sometimes wood sub-floors can be affected)

* Any Flooring product, or any product designed to protect your flooring needs to be able to "Breathe" (allow moisture and gases that are in your sub-flooring (concrete or wood) to pass through harmlessly and dissipate).

* Never use Plastic Runners. They will damage your flooring. If you feel that you must use plastic runners, you will cut your chances of damage by fifty percent if you use a runner that is ventilated. (See Vent-A-Mat at www.TheMatStore.com) These runners have small holes every inch or so to allow water vapor and gases to pass through and more safely dissipate into the air, which means less chance for damage to your flooring. Ventilated plastic runners will decrease chances of damage, but they are not a perfect solution.

* The best product for protecting your flooring investment is rug runners. But be sure to buy the type that "breathe". A Rug Runner is simply a long, narrow rug. It can have a woven backing or a standard heat-set (action type) backing. As long as you choose one WITHOUT a SOLID Layer of PLASTIC, VINYL OR RUBBER on the back, it will never cause damage to your expensive Carpet (or other floorings). Long, narrow Area Rugs work great as runners. Any area rug that is longer than it is wide can be used, and wool is the best type of fiber, but nylon will also do nicely. Or you can buy runners by the lineal foot (running foot). But be aware that most runners that are sold this way are designed to be fastened to stairways and steps, these will tend to wrinkle and bunch if used over wall-to-wall carpet.

Charles Beason

www.RugRunnerBiz.com

LiveJournal Tags: rugrunners,rug runner,plastic runners,plastic,vinyl,rubber,area rug,carpets,flooring,damage to rugs and carpets,wool area rugs,wool runners,solid runners,vented mats and runners

About Powder substance under New Area Rugs ?…

Announcement:

 

I have been getting a lot of searches and questions on the subject of residual powder under brand new area rugs. We have never had this kind of problem with the rugs we suggest or deal in and I have never experienced it in all my years as a flooring consultant, so I am currently researching this phenomena and will be calling some rep’s and distributors to try and find out what is causing this problem and what name brands seem to be affected. I will post an answer as soon as I am able to find out something. So far it seems to be limited to area rugs that are coming from China and other parts of the Far East.

Is it a new treatment to protect the rugs from insect damage during shipment and storage?
Is it rugs that have been in storage for way too long and the backing is already dried out and breaking down?
Is it a deoderizing powder?
 
Right now I just cannot say what it is, but I will see if I can find out.

 

By the way, We have a FREE Ebook now available to download concerning Principles of Home Decor

         (interior decoration- lots of good information, tips and ideas)

    Just go to the website and register to download your Free Copy: www.RugRunnerBiz.com or www.RugRunner.biz

 

Charles Beason

www.RugRunnerBiz.com

Why I don’t Use Area Rug Pads (or cushions)

Most Decent Area Rugs do not need a Rug Pad…

 

    If my above statement is true, then why are so many dealers telling us that we need one under our area rug? It’s called up-sale or cross-sell but most of the time it is merely a way to add to the original sale. I do not wish to offend, but many hapless sales-people truly think that an area rug will last longer with a rug pad under it. This is only true in a very small number of cases. If you have a good quality hand-woven rug that is very light and thin (almost like a tapestry), and has a tendency to wrinkle and bunch (becoming a trip hazard), then you would want to consider an all-felt rug pad in order to make it behave (some rugs can really be a beast). Or if you have a very rough surface that you are covering with your rug that may cause wear points, then you might need a pad or cushion. Cut the pad 1 inch smaller than your rug. Otherwise, most other types of rug pads (or cushions) are useless and tend to do more harm than good. Most rug pads are man-made materials and the use of these rug pads on many types of hard-surface flooring (vinyl, linoleum, hard-wood and some ceramics and stones) will usually cause some type of damage. Lately I have been getting a lot of questions on how to remove yellowing from vinyl or how to remove a rug pad that has bonded to a hard-wood floor. I have posted answers for this problem on my web site, but the best cure for these types of problems is to never use any rug pad except all-felt, and never buy cheap polypropylene or olefin rugs, and never ever use a rug that has a solid latex or rubber backing.

    According to recent news concerning area rugs, the market has shifted from the better quality wool and nylon rugs to inferior poly or poly-blend rugs. This is a sad situation as far as I am concerned, and I am noticing a lot more rug problems associated with the inferior quality rugs. With the high emphasis on the environment, I am somewhat baffled by the trend toward inferior rugs as they will wear out more quickly and end up in a landfill within a few years or months. Even the big brand-name manufacturers are selling these inferior products. Why? Because people are buying them without realizing that they are so cheaply made. It is my experience, that if you shop around a little, you can find good quality wool or nylon rugs for close to the same price as an inferior man-made fiber rug. You usually get what you pay for. If you pay a little more for a rug now, you will be happy with it for many years.

    I only use good quality wool or nylon rugs in my home, and that is always what I suggest to my clients. With a decent rug that has some substance to it, you will hardly ever find the need for a rug pad. None of my rugs have a pad under them and they all behave nicely, they do not wrinkle, crush or curl at the edges. If you must use a rug pad in your home, the safest type is an all-felt pad (without any plastic barrier) and make certain it is as dense as possible. People like their cushions and pads to be soft under foot, but a soft cushion allows too much up and down movement of the rug and this will break down the backing over time. The firmer the surface is that your area rug covers, the longer it will last and the better it will behave.

    It is my experience that a decent rug with substance (has some weight to it) will tend to lay flat where you place it and will not move around or travel across the floor as much as an thin inexpensive (cheap) rug. If you place a rug over wall-to-wall carpet (especially cut-pile) it may travel a little more (always in the direction that the nap lays on the carpet), but this is a minor problem to deal with compared to the alternatives.

    If you have questions about area rugs or flooring problems you can post them on the forum, this blog, or just email me and I will respond within a day or two at the most.

Email: chazbeason@rugrunnerbiz.com

 

Charles Beason

www.RugRunnerBiz.com

 

LiveJournal Tags: Area Rug Problems,Rug Pads,Cushions,Hard-Surface Floor Damage,Man-made rug Pad,All-felt rug pad,Why I do not use rug pads

Problems with Polypropylene or Olefin Area Rugs?

Some people are experiencing problems with area rugs made from certain fibers. Here is one reason why.

As I browsed a popular chain-store not long ago, I noticed that area rugs have made a dramatic shift in composition compared to a few short years ago. Since my livelihood is based on having an intimate knowledge of the flooring products that I suggest to my clients, I always read labels… especially on deals that seem to good to be true. And as I browsed through the offering of area rugs in the chain-store, I noticed that almost all the rugs were made of polypropylene or it’s very close cousin, olefin. I am a firm believer in consumers being well informed and getting a good value for their money. So I seek here to give a fair comparison of this fiber against what is clearly a better fiber for your money.

    Let me start out with the good qualities of polypropylene and olefin. This fiber is a fairly strong man-made fiber that is well suited to mats and runners that may be used at entrances or patios or even outdoors, if properly treated for UV protection. In the past you would almost always find this type of fiber in a low profile, very tight loop style rug, and that is what it is best suited for. Many light to medium duty commercial carpets are made of this fiber (always in loop form). This fiber is usually extruded to the color that it will be (not dyed after extrusion), so it tends to hold it’s color well and can be used in intricate designs. This fiber is also resistant to most types of stains, and cleans up well (in tight loop form). Many manufacturers of area rugs choose this fiber because it is cheaper than other fibers and they can pass the savings on to the consumer.

    Now let me point out the not so good qualities of this fiber. This fiber is a man-made synthetic fiber that is petroleum based (not very "green" or environmentally friendly). Although it is a good indoor-outdoor type of fiber in tight looped form, it is basically useless in any other form. In a cut-pile or plush rug it has a bad reputation of matting and crushing very quickly, so even though the fiber is not wearing out, it begins to look very ugly pretty fast. Although it holds color well and resists many types of stains, it tends to hang on to stains that are oily or greasy (even the body oils from the bottom of your feet and your pet’s feet). In other words, it does not clean that well in a cut pile or plush style. So basically, if manufactured in anything other than tightly looped form, you end up with a brightly colored, greasy, oily, matted and crushed rug that looks like it has been there for years instead of months. Lastly, since it is the cheapest fiber that manufacturers use, it is not the greatest value. I have also noticed a shift in the major brand name rug and carpet manufacturers, they are also using polypropylene and olefin in their latest generation of area rugs, so just because it may have a good brand name it does not mean you will get a good quality area rug. If you want a cheap, disposable mat or runner that will end up in a landfill sooner than later, then this is the rug to buy. If you are going to buy a synthetic fiber area rug, at least make certain it is nylon or man-made silk. It will wear better and last longer.

    If you need a Fine Quality Area Rug for interior design or home decor, the absolute best fibers are silk and wool. Silk costs more and requires professional maintenance, so that leaves us with wool. Wool is a natural fiber that has better resistance to matting, crushing, fading and is a natural for built in stain protection (you can spray a fine mist of stain-protector straight from the can for even greater protection). It does not soil as easily as other fibers, and will not mat and crush for many, many years. Some wool rugs are even passed down from one generation to another; if well maintained. Wool area rugs are not that much more money than a nylon rug (as a machine made product. Hand-made will cost you more). Value per dollar is greatly increased by choosing a timeless pattern with wool fiber.

    If you shop wisely you can usually find a wool area rug for about the same price as synthetic fibers and fiber is also woven to manufacture clothing. So, my rule of thumb for area rug fiber is basically this: If I wouldn’t wear it on my body, why would I want to walk on it?

Charles Beason

www.rugrunnerbiz.com

Technorati Tags: Area Rugs and Home Decor,wool Area Rugs,synthetic fibers,polypropylene,olefin,inferior rugs

Answer to Rug Problem (Sliding and Bunching)

Question:

I am having problems with an area rug on wall to wall carpet.  The area rug must have some type of  coating on the back.  I have tried a carpet pad underneath the rug and double stick carpet tape.  It adhers to the wall to wall carpet but not the area rug.  The area rug keeps sliding and bunching up.  Any ideas as to what I can do?

Answer:

I would like more info on the type of rug you have… but I think I have a good idea. I have heard many people say that double face tape is the answer to an unruly rug. I would like to address this first. It is never good to put double face tape on any good flooring that you want to keep in good shape. The adhesive in the tape will usually end up causing a string of problems all by itself. It can damage the face fibers of your wall-to-wall carpet and will cause things like discoloration, matting, etc… and cleaning the adhesive off the carpet becomes an exercise in futility if the tape is allowed to remain for many months or years. Next; A rug pad will seldom cure any of the kind of problems anyone will experience with placing a rug on wall-to-wall carpet.

As for a rug that bunches up; this indicates to me that your rug is a soft and flexible rug, and probably has a secondary layer of latex on the back. Any rug that has a coating of latex or rubber on the backing is not the quality of rug that you want on top of any good carpet (or vinyl, hardwood, stone), If it does not cause chemical reactions that will discolor or stain the flooring you are trying to protect, it will draw moisture up through concrete slabs which creates even greater problems. (see Area Rug FAQ on my web site).

I also suspect that your rug is not stable enough for the purpose you are attempting. If this is the case, I would suggest investing in a better quality rug. Look for area rugs that have firmer or stiffer backing and yet has no kind of secondary backing that will not allow it to breathe. It should be stable enough not to wrinkle or curl. Good quality rugs are usually made from wool, silk, nylon, or man-made-silk (natural fibers are better).

Now, about crawling (sliding) rugs. Any rug on top of carpet that is not anchored by furniture will crawl slowly over time. Most rugs will travel in the direction of the nap of the carpet that they lie on. Although slightly bothersome, a good rug will only travel a few inches along the direction of the carpet nap over a period of several days or weeks. Since it is usually smaller accent rugs that do this, I don’t think it much trouble to pull it back into position. I usually pull the rug a few inches past where I like it to sit so that it spends more time in the intended area (more or less).

I hope this helps answer your questions… If you need more info, please feel free to comment or email me with more details.

 

You can always order a small wool rug from our site as a standard of quality. Then order the size you need after testing it. That way you have your matching mat or runner before you commit to a larger area rug.

 

Chales Beason

chazbeason@rugrunnerbiz.com

www.rugrunnerbiz.com